Religious Tourism - The Monasteries Around Veliko Tarnovo

People's faith is different and so are the ways they get to it. If in ancient times, pilgrimages were a dangerous enterprise, nowadays, the contemporary pilgrims can travel as much as they want in cyberspace. It is not the same thing, though! Among the numerous routes of religious tourism in Bulgaria, we've chosen the one that leads to a group of monasteries around the medieval Bulgarian capital of Veliko Tarnovo in Northern Bulgaria."These medieval spiritual centers continue to be a focus of historical research," says Ass. Prof. D-r Plamen Pavlov, lecturer at the St. Cyril and St. Methodius University of Veliko Tarnovo. His narrow area of expertise is the history of Byzantium and the Balkan states in the period IV-XV centuries."Today, only one hill, situated south of the medieval fortresses of Tsarevets and Trapezitsa, is known as Sveta Gora or the Mount Athos of Tarnovo. In the past, that name was applied to a wider area around the town where 14 monasteries have remained from the Middle Ages. At their heyday, however, they were much more in number.There were also a few monasteries within the very limits of the city - something distinctive of other medieval Eastern Christian Orthodox capitals. At the time, the second Bulgarian kingdom was in its prime, the Tarnovo Patriarchy was highly respected in the Slavonic Christian Orthodox world and only second to the one in Constantinople. The Mount Athos of Tarnovo was in reality a group of monasteries, each of which had its own magnetism and profound connection with our history.Dryanovo monastery was the most visited one. That is not only due to its historical significance, but also to its proximity to the main road that links Veliko Tarnovo with Southern Bulgaria," says Plamen Pavlov.Amidst the serenity and spectacular view from the Dryanovo monastery, one comes into contact with that profound unity that existed between spiritual and patriotic endeavors. Often, Vasil Levsky, the apostle of Bulgarian freedom, used to find shelter here. The monks too participated in the struggle against 5 centuries of Turkish rule. During the April Uprising of 1876, the monastery was turned into a rebel stronghold and, as a consequence, it was burned down to the ground to be later restored. Nowadays, there is a museum there and a new wing for guests' accommodation has been added.One of the other monasteries around the medieval capital of Bulgaria is the ascetic "Holy Trinity" built, according to historians, around 1070. It was the very first abode of Hesychasts - adherents to Hesychasm, an eremitic tradition in the Eastern Orthodox Christianity in the Middle Ages.A number of medieval Bulgarian kings used to come to the monastery for spiritual guidance and advice. Like other monasteries in the vicinity, "Holy Trinity" was nearly destroyed by the Turks. The prominent Bulgarian National Revival architect Kolyu Ficheto worked on the restoration of the monastery. He also built a church that was decorated by the outstanding Bulgarian National Revival icon-painter Zahari Zograf. Unfortunately, the church was leveled to the ground in an earthquake in 1913.On the adjacent hill, one can find the Preobrazenski monastery (or Transfiguration monastery) also built by Kolyu Ficheto but entirely preserved. Currently, restoration works on the mural paintings of the monastery's church and exterior are underway where legendary icon-painter Zahari Zograf depicted the Circle of Life.Very close to Veliko Tarnovo is "St. Peter and Pavel" monastery, which is also connected with the Bulgarian royal dynasties and the Bulgarian revolutionary processes. The monastery was so famous in the 17th century that the Russian tzar Peter the Great, sent a gold-plated edition of the Gospels as a present to it.One can see the monastery from afar for it is situated on a picturesque plateau. The 30-meter-high belfry is first to be noticed from the yard one can admire the beautiful view of the Danube valley and the Balkan range. Tourists cannot lodge here but only 6km down the road, in Veliko Tarnovo, there are plenty of hotels and guesthouses.There is no way of telling you about all the monasteries around Bulgaria's medieval capital. But, there is also no way of skipping the most prominent one situated near the royal hill of Tsarevets and its church "The 40 Holy Martyrs". What's left of the monastery are the foundations of the monks' lodgings. However, the church was fully restored recently. The complex was built in the 13th century by tsar Ivan Asen II. "Even if a man lives well, he eventually dies and another one is born. Let the latter see and remember the former upon reading this and what he has created." These words were engraved on one of the columns in the church.